Tuesday, July 30, 2013
Kenya travel tips: Money, credit cards, cash, ATMs
Cash
Some guidebooks and websites say that U.S. dollars are accepted in Kenya just as readily as Kenyan shillings, but based on my family's recent trip there I think that's misleading.
We found just about all goods and services were offered in shillings (except at the airport gift shops, where dollars are preferred). While you may be able to pay in dollars in some places, the seller will certainly make the conversion in his or her favor.
People in rural areas will have trouble exchanging dollars, so they clearly prefer shillings.
Also, various travelers have reported that Kenyans may refuse to accept dollars, particularly $100 and $50 bills, if they're even slightly torn or slightly old (over five years). We never had any of our shilling notes refused, except when the seller couldn't make change, even though most of them were heavily wrinkled and worn.
In short, it's best to get shillings right away from an ATM and use them for most expenses.
Do take a wad of U.S. $1 dollar bills for tipping, because it may not be easy to break the 1,000-shilling (about $11.40) notes you get at the ATM.
Paying for your visa
There is one thing you can't use shillings for – your entrance visas. You must pay for these in dollars ($50 per person, including children, for a single-entrance visa), Euros or British Pounds. Credit cards are not accepted; you must pay cash.
Because of Kenyans' reputed pickiness about U.S. bills, I went to my bank before we left and got four $50 bills of the most recent issue year possible (2009, as it turned out) to pay for my family's visas. Three of the bills were crisp, but the fourth one was rather wrinkled, and I worried it would be rejected.
It wasn't. But at the next visa station over we noticed that another visitor's $100 bill had been turned down and he was hurriedly thumbing through his wallet to find a replacement.
ATMs
Before your trip, check with your bank to see if you'll be assessed a fee for withdrawing cash at ATMs in Kenya. It may depend on what ATM you use. For instance, Bank of America (my bank) has a partnership with Barclays, so when I used Barclays ATMs, there was no fee.
But when I used other banks' ATMs, I got badly dinged: There was a $5 fee levied by Bank of America, plus about $1.75 charged by the bank owning the ATM. Ouch.
It's good to withdraw plenty of money when you do visit the ATM. It minimizes the number of ATM fees you pay, and it means less worry about getting low on cash and less time lost stopping to refill your wallet. Of course, be careful how you carry cash; I recommend using a money belt.
ATMs are common in cities, but don't expect to find them in the national parks. There is at least one at the Nairobi airport, just outside the baggage carousel area.
Plastic
Credit cards are typically only accepted in Kenya at hotels, larger stores and restaurants that serve a lot of tourists. Be aware that many credit cards assess a 3% charge on foreign transactions, so you may want to get a credit card without such a fee before your trip. I got a Capital One card for exactly this reason.
One interesting moment occurred when I pulled out my credit card to pay the bill at a nice restaurant in Nairobi. Rather than take my card, the waiter brought the card processing machine to the table. We learned that this is common practice in Kenya to assure the customer that nothing undue is being done with your card.
Be sure to call your credit card companies and banks to warn them you'll be using your credit and ATM cards in foreign countries so they don't regard those transactions as fraud. It wouldn't hurt to tell them two or three times. I warned Bank of America that I would be using my ATM card in Kenya – and yet they still froze my card after my first withdrawal. (I managed to call them while there and get things fixed.)
See also these articles:
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Monday, July 29, 2013
Review: Schiphol Airport in Amsterdam
If you have to be stranded at an airport, Amsterdam is not a bad place for it to happen.
On a recent trip to Kenya, my family missed our connecting flight in Amsterdam, forcing us to spend nine hours waiting in Schiphol Airport. While a missed connection is never fun, Schiphol's many amenities made it easier to take.
Tired? Sleepy? Head upstairs and find the dimly lit areas with lounge chairs. It was just what we needed after our overnight flight, and it cost nothing. (Just be sure to set your alarm so you don't sleep past your boarding time.) There are also restrooms with showers in this area.
There are some cute whimsically designed restaurants inside the airport, and even a small museum. There's a bigger selection of shops and restaurants if you exit out through passport control and enter Schiphol Plaza, which is something like a shopping mall at the airport. Don't worry, as long as you have your passport and boarding pass, you'll have no trouble getting back in.
Want to watch planes taking off and landing? Once outside passport control, follow the signs to the Panorama Deck, an enormous viewing area on top of the airport.
If you have enough time, you can easily take the train into central Amsterdam. Buy tickets to Amsterdam Centraal station either at the kiosks or at the ticket counter. If you're returning the same day, you can buy round-trip tickets (second-class tickets are fine; no need to spend more for first-class passage). U.S.-style magnetic strip credit cards don't work at the kiosks, so you'll have to go to the counter, where there's a extra fee of 50 cents per ticket.
Once you have your tickets, head downstairs to board your train. Trains to Centraal leave pretty frequently and only take 20 minutes once you're on them.
In our experience, there was a crush of people getting on the train, but once on, the ride was quiet and amazingly smooth. By the way, there were no turnstiles to get to the train and no one ever checked if we had tickets. I'm just saying.
At Schiphol, they do security at each gate rather than immediately after check-in. I'm not sure why they do it that way, but it did prevent us from our usual routine of bringing empty water bottles through security and then filling them at a drinking fountain. Be sure to go the bathroom before going through security, because there are no restrooms in the "secure area. "
Also read these articles:
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On a recent trip to Kenya, my family missed our connecting flight in Amsterdam, forcing us to spend nine hours waiting in Schiphol Airport. While a missed connection is never fun, Schiphol's many amenities made it easier to take.
Tired? Sleepy? Head upstairs and find the dimly lit areas with lounge chairs. It was just what we needed after our overnight flight, and it cost nothing. (Just be sure to set your alarm so you don't sleep past your boarding time.) There are also restrooms with showers in this area.
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| A flower shop in Schiphol Plaza |
There are some cute whimsically designed restaurants inside the airport, and even a small museum. There's a bigger selection of shops and restaurants if you exit out through passport control and enter Schiphol Plaza, which is something like a shopping mall at the airport. Don't worry, as long as you have your passport and boarding pass, you'll have no trouble getting back in.
Want to watch planes taking off and landing? Once outside passport control, follow the signs to the Panorama Deck, an enormous viewing area on top of the airport.
If you have enough time, you can easily take the train into central Amsterdam. Buy tickets to Amsterdam Centraal station either at the kiosks or at the ticket counter. If you're returning the same day, you can buy round-trip tickets (second-class tickets are fine; no need to spend more for first-class passage). U.S.-style magnetic strip credit cards don't work at the kiosks, so you'll have to go to the counter, where there's a extra fee of 50 cents per ticket.
Once you have your tickets, head downstairs to board your train. Trains to Centraal leave pretty frequently and only take 20 minutes once you're on them.
In our experience, there was a crush of people getting on the train, but once on, the ride was quiet and amazingly smooth. By the way, there were no turnstiles to get to the train and no one ever checked if we had tickets. I'm just saying.
At Schiphol, they do security at each gate rather than immediately after check-in. I'm not sure why they do it that way, but it did prevent us from our usual routine of bringing empty water bottles through security and then filling them at a drinking fountain. Be sure to go the bathroom before going through security, because there are no restrooms in the "secure area. "
Also read these articles:
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Review: Rederij Plas canal tour in Amsterdam
There are at least six companies offering boat tours of Amsterdam's canals. My family chose the one offered by Rederij Plas, at their dock just off the Damrak (across the street from the Sex Museum). I wish we had chosen differently.
There was nothing awful about this one-hour tour, but the recorded narration
– offered in Dutch, German and English – was rather thin. It noted, for example, that a particular house formerly belonged to a particular Amsterdam businessman, but failed to tell us what was notable about him.
A lot of the tour had no narration, so there was clearly room to expand what they offered. I'm sure a decent historian could come up with many colorful stories about a city that has such extensive history as Amsterdam.
And frankly, the concept of a single narration tape in which the same thing is repeated in three languages seems antiquated. Wouldn't this be a logical venue for using individual headsets, so passengers could choose the language they want and get more detailed information?
I can't complain about the price of this tour – 9 euros ($12) for adults and 5 euros ($6.65) for kids. Still, I'd suggest trying a different one.
Also, read these articles:
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There was nothing awful about this one-hour tour, but the recorded narration
– offered in Dutch, German and English – was rather thin. It noted, for example, that a particular house formerly belonged to a particular Amsterdam businessman, but failed to tell us what was notable about him.
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| A tour boat view of one of Amsterdam's canals |
A lot of the tour had no narration, so there was clearly room to expand what they offered. I'm sure a decent historian could come up with many colorful stories about a city that has such extensive history as Amsterdam.
And frankly, the concept of a single narration tape in which the same thing is repeated in three languages seems antiquated. Wouldn't this be a logical venue for using individual headsets, so passengers could choose the language they want and get more detailed information?
I can't complain about the price of this tour – 9 euros ($12) for adults and 5 euros ($6.65) for kids. Still, I'd suggest trying a different one.
Also, read these articles:
- Review: Sharm Hotel in Amsterdam
- Review: Schiphol Airport in Amsterdam
- What's the deal with breakfast in Amsterdam?
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Review: Sharm Hotel in Amsterdam
The Sharm Hotel in Amsterdam is a very basic hotel in an excellent location. If you just need a place to sleep while you're visiting the city, but don't need any special comforts, it might work for you.
The Sharm won't work for you, though, if you don't like to climb stairs or you're bringing heavy bags. The first thing you'll find is that you have to ascend an incredibly steep flight of stairs just to reach the check-in desk, and then one or two more equally steep flights to reach your room. We were huffing and puffing by the time we reached our top-floor room – and we were only carrying two modest backpacks.
Our room was small, and the bathroom even smaller. You could practically sit on the toilet, wash your hands in the sink and take a shower all at the same time.
There was no air conditioning, which probably isn't a big deal most of the year, but we happened to arrive on one of the hottest days of the year and our room was quite warm and stuffy.
Still, the room did have a TV and working Wi-Fi. The beds were small. The pillows were quite good.
The Sharm's big strength is its location. It's just a 15-minute walk from the Amsterdam Centraal train station and just a 2-minute walk from the Anne Frank House. You're close to Dam Square, and there are plenty of restaurants and shops in the area. It's pleasant to stroll along the canals in the neighborhood.
There's no automated way to reserve a room through the hotel's website, but there is a contact form. I made our reservation through Booking.com, and we ended up paying $191 for one night in our four-bed room. I consider that really expensive for this sort of accommodation, but all the hotels in Amsterdam seemed to be high-priced in the middle of summer.
Also see these articles:
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The Sharm won't work for you, though, if you don't like to climb stairs or you're bringing heavy bags. The first thing you'll find is that you have to ascend an incredibly steep flight of stairs just to reach the check-in desk, and then one or two more equally steep flights to reach your room. We were huffing and puffing by the time we reached our top-floor room – and we were only carrying two modest backpacks.
Our room was small, and the bathroom even smaller. You could practically sit on the toilet, wash your hands in the sink and take a shower all at the same time.
There was no air conditioning, which probably isn't a big deal most of the year, but we happened to arrive on one of the hottest days of the year and our room was quite warm and stuffy.
Still, the room did have a TV and working Wi-Fi. The beds were small. The pillows were quite good.
The Sharm's big strength is its location. It's just a 15-minute walk from the Amsterdam Centraal train station and just a 2-minute walk from the Anne Frank House. You're close to Dam Square, and there are plenty of restaurants and shops in the area. It's pleasant to stroll along the canals in the neighborhood.
There's no automated way to reserve a room through the hotel's website, but there is a contact form. I made our reservation through Booking.com, and we ended up paying $191 for one night in our four-bed room. I consider that really expensive for this sort of accommodation, but all the hotels in Amsterdam seemed to be high-priced in the middle of summer.
Also see these articles:
- Review: Schiphol Airport in Amsterdam
- Review: Rederij Plas canal tour in Amsterdam
- What's the deal with breakfast in Amsterdam
(Please support this blog by clicking on an ad.)
Saturday, July 27, 2013
What's the deal with breakfast in Amsterdam?
When my family visited Amsterdam recently, we were pleased to see a pancake restaurant near our hotel. The restaurant, located in the Western Canal Ring neighborhood, looked like a good place for breakfast.
But the next morning, arriving at about 7:45, we were surprised to discover that the restaurant didn't open until 8:30. That seemed odd for a breakfast place, but we didn't dwell on it as we headed down the street to a bagel and coffee place. But that shop also was closed, and didn't open until 9:00 a.m.
Looking around, we found some several other cafes or coffee shops, some with the word "breakfast" prominently displayed outside. None of them were open. None opened earlier than 9 a.m. We ended up eating breakfast at a quaint Dutch place known as ... McDonalds. It was the only place open.
In the United States, breakfast and coffee shops are open at least by 6 a.m. (if they're not 24 hours). A restaurant that didn't open until 9 a.m., well, wouldn't be a breakfast place.
So what's deal in Amsterdam? It's not like there weren't any potential customers. As we strolled the streets at 8 a.m., there were plenty of people on bikes riding to work (this was a Tuesday), and small groups of tourists out, too. Even if locals don't eat breakfast out, you'd think the market for feeding hungry tourists would be ripe.
I honestly don't get it. Is there someone out there who can explain to me the mystery of the Amsterdam breakfast culture? Please put your comments below.
See also these articles:
Review: Schiphol Airport in Amsterdam
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But the next morning, arriving at about 7:45, we were surprised to discover that the restaurant didn't open until 8:30. That seemed odd for a breakfast place, but we didn't dwell on it as we headed down the street to a bagel and coffee place. But that shop also was closed, and didn't open until 9:00 a.m.
Looking around, we found some several other cafes or coffee shops, some with the word "breakfast" prominently displayed outside. None of them were open. None opened earlier than 9 a.m. We ended up eating breakfast at a quaint Dutch place known as ... McDonalds. It was the only place open.
In the United States, breakfast and coffee shops are open at least by 6 a.m. (if they're not 24 hours). A restaurant that didn't open until 9 a.m., well, wouldn't be a breakfast place.
So what's deal in Amsterdam? It's not like there weren't any potential customers. As we strolled the streets at 8 a.m., there were plenty of people on bikes riding to work (this was a Tuesday), and small groups of tourists out, too. Even if locals don't eat breakfast out, you'd think the market for feeding hungry tourists would be ripe.
I honestly don't get it. Is there someone out there who can explain to me the mystery of the Amsterdam breakfast culture? Please put your comments below.
See also these articles:
Review: Schiphol Airport in Amsterdam
(Please support this blog by clicking on an ad.)
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